The 28th Delhi Book Fair 2024

A posts on the crowds, books and my experiences of The Delhi Book Fair 2024.

Remembering Professor Sunil Kumar

He was one of the greatest historians who worked on the history of medieval delhi, which served as capital of the Delhi Sultanate (1192-1526 CE) for 300 years.

Temple of the Emerald Buddha - Amazing Thailand

This series is based over my reflections upon visiting Thailand.

The Immortal Kumbh Mela - Mahakumbha of 2013

Believed to be the largest congregation of mankind in the world, read my series of posts to know how it feels like to be amongst a magnitude of people

Shahjahanabad (Const 1648 CE)- The Legacy of Delhi Series (Vol 8)

'Shahjahanabad' is the eighth post in a series of 9 articles on the former capital cities which were built in the historical region of Delhi. Read on to know more..

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Showing posts with label Alai Darwaza. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Alai Darwaza. Show all posts

Monday, June 7, 2021

Remembering Professor Sunil Kumar

 

Professor Sunil Kumar passed away recently. He was 64. He was a specialist in the History of the Delhi Sultanate (Medieval Delhi). He had developed health complications. He is survived by his family. The blog and its author extend their heartfelt condolences to the bereaved family.

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So, why is a heritage and off-beat travel blogger writing this piece? It is because along with this blog, which is 11 years old now, even its author has grown. From being a blogger about history I attempted to take my passion to the next level, the academic level. And today, I am a historian who is a blogger. 

During my full-time blogging days, I would be in awe of the research work Professor Sunil Kumar did over Medieval Delhi. He was one of the rare historians of the Delhi Region, 'My Home'. 

Professor Sunil Kumar's landmark book about the Delhi Sultanate.
(The author does not own the copyright to this picture)

In this journey, I have had the privilege of learning from some big professors. He is one of them. So, once I completed my Master's in History, I attempted to do research and for that, I gave interviews at Delhi University twice. 

Being the Head of the Department of History, he led the interview panels and sat right next to me. Also, apart from these two interactions, we briefly exchanged emails because I requested some help from him regarding my research proposal and he was kind enough to respond. It left me touched. My communications with him were formal and brief. 

The tyranny of the academic system in India is that, a prospective researcher has got 10 minutes to prove to the panel that he or she has the historical aptitude, confidence in the topic he/she is proposing, they have read books and research papers related to that proposal and defend that proposal in front of the panel. After the 10 minutes are over it’s the time for the next candidate to come in. 

In my opinion, these three things cannot be displayed by a candidate, to an interview panel, in less than 35-40 minutes unless they are highly intelligent and bordering on genius. In my opinion applications along with research proposals (and academic resumes) should be invited by Universities well in advance, and then interviews should be slated. Anyways, we live in India. The priority of the education system here is to churn out doctors, engineers, and MBAs. So we need to take that into our stride.

The academics who are sitting in the interview panel also have the harrowing task of judging a candidate's abilities in 10 minutes. I am sure they do so with the regret that they would be missing out on students who require time to express themselves and their ideas comfortably. I do not envy their job.

My two interactions with him (concerning the interviews, especially the second one) were 'intense' experiences, and my failure to clear those interviews left me with an aching heart and dealing with severe bouts of depression and self-doubt. Yet, once I overcame those debilitating emotions, through my reflections of those interactions, I 'scrutinized' every word exchanged between him and me so that I could identify and correct my flaws and also my approach to such interviews.

So, while being heartbroken because of my lack of success, I always felt that even in those moments of failure I was taught something. How can I say that? Because I failed in front of Professor Sunil Kumar! 

As I mentioned earlier, he was a historian par excellence of medieval Delhi. His research work has helped people gain a better perspective about those who constructed such beautiful monuments (of the sultanate period) all around Delhi like the Qutub Minar, Alai Darwaza, Begumpuri Masjid, etc. He 'always' had my unconditional respect.

Clockwise from above right - Begumpuri Masjid, Qutub Minar, Alai Darwaza

This blog 'is' run by someone who has passionately covered the monuments of the same period of history which Professor Sunil Kumar was a master of. He was my teacher by proxy. The lessons he taught me through his emails, rejections, etc, and the lessons he continues to teach me via his research papers on Sufism are invaluable.

There was a great chasm between his abilities and mine but, there were a few similarities that united us in our outlook also. We were both liberal, we both have studied at St Stephen's and, most importantly, we both 'loved' the Delhi Sultanate period.

Even in my days as a full-time blogger, while I read more of Professor Satish Chandra and Professor Irfan Habib still, I knew how significant Professor Sunil Kumar's book 'The Emergence of the Delhi Sultanate' was. The book helped me understand the Mamluk Dynasty (the constructors of the monuments in the Qutub Complex) so well. 

He even wrote a research paper on the Qutub Minar namely 'Qutb and Modern Memory'. In his research paper, 'The Tyranny of Metanarratives' he talked about the areas of Delhi and the local non-Persian speaking population of Delhi which thrived in their own right and yet, were not covered much by Persian historians of that period. He also explained how medieval Delhi appeared geographically (with mountains, ravines, forests, and riverine plains), in the paper. In his research paper The Pirs Barakat and Servitors Ardour he talked about the mosque behind DLF Saket which has been built over a dargah and a 700 years old baoli (step-well). He also talked about the Dargah of Hazrat Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki in Mehrauli and the Dargah of Jalal ud din Chishti Aulia in Jahanpanah City Forest.

I will regret forever that I was never able to sit down with him, in a relaxed atmosphere and discuss Delhi's monuments (especially those in the Qutub Complex like Quwwat ul Islam Masjid, Alai Minar, etc.) with him. That would have been a conversation which would have delighted me.

It is my opinion that a historian's life begins after he retires as that is the time he is free to do his research work. It is a tragedy for Delhi that Professor Sunil Kumar left before giving such works to shape.

Appearance-wise, I observed that he was stylish, with his mobile case by his side. He was tall and had a deep voice.

Professor Sunil Kumar, please accept this traveler's humble and respectful bow. You are in my prayers, Sir. 

May your Soul, Rest in Peace.

……..


Friday, January 8, 2021

Qutub Minar Complex, under lights! - A Photo Essay

 

The Qutub Minar, under lights!
Qutub Minar, an icon of contemporary New Delhi is at least 800 years old. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In India, after the Taj Mahal, it is this monument that attracts the highest number of visitors from across the world. Recently, it even surpassed the Taj Mahal in the number of Ticket Sales.
The allure of this monument is its height and its unique architecture. It stands tilted due to the wear and tear time has imposed on it. No words though, can define the rustic beauty of this monument which no one exactly knows why it was built and how it came to be named Qutub Minar.

So, call it ignorance on my part or lack of regular promotion on part of the Archaeological Survey of India, I never had an opportunity to visit the Qutub Minar late in the evening when the lights were on because somehow, I was not aware that I could do that (can you believe it?). 

So when the 1st nationwide lockdown was lifted from India in 2020, I made it a point to visit this place late in the evening and see the Qutub Minar and all the nearby monuments like alai darwaza, etc., collectively called the Qutub Minar Complex, under lights. 

I think that visiting this place after sunset is one of the best ways to explore this monument. There are no crowds. So you can spend more time observing the intricacies of the Qutub Minar and the other monuments in the complex like quwwat ul islam mosque, alai darwaza etc. Security guards are everywhere so you are safe. Most importantly, the illuminated monuments cast a completely different impression on you in comparison to daytime.

This article had to be done in a Photo Essay form so that you would have understood, via pictures, a fraction of what I felt when I visited the Qutub Minar Complex (and the Qutub Minar) when it was dark.

The Inscriptions on the Minar, under lights!
The Minar, from a different angle, under lights!

The Quwwat ul Islam mosque is one of the oldest mosques in India. A walk through the mosque premises in the evening, while secure security-wise, felt quite eerie nonetheless. That reflected in the quality of my photographs as I found myself short of patience when I tried to click pictures, while standing in the courtyard area of the mosque. 

Pictures of the Quwwat ul Islam Mosque, under lights - 

The front façade of the mosque under a dark blue sky and a crescent moon, under lights!
The entrance to the mosque, under lights!
The aisles of the mosque and the engravings on the pillars, highlighted under lights!
The Mihrab of the mosque, under lights!
The mosque, from another angle, under lights!

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Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Qutb Group of Monuments Part Two

(Continued from Qutb Group of Monuments Part One.......)

Period of Khalji Sultan Ala ud din
         
The Khalji dynasty succeeded the Mamluk dynasty in 1290 A.D. Sultan Ala ud din Khalji (1296 - 1316), during his reign, tripled the size of the Quwwat ul Islam Mosque to accommodate the city's growing Muslim population. Ala ud din Khalji also decided to build another minaret, the Alai Minar, meant to be taller and larger than the existing Qutb Minar. Ala ud din Khalji also added a madarsa to the southwestern end of the complex and the historically significant Alai Darwaza (1311 A.D.) on its southern end.

 Alai Darwaza, with the tomb of Imam Zamin to the right. Alai Darwaza was the first building in India to employ Islamic architectural principles in its construction and ornamentation.

The Alai Darwaza is a richly decorated gateway, renowned for its use of a bold polychromatic scheme. Three other gates were also added to this mosque extension, two at the eastern wall and one at the northern wall.

It is the main gateway from southern side of the Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque. Second Khalji Sultan of Delhi, Ala ud din Khalji in 1311 AD, also added a court to the pillared to the eastern side. The domed gateway is decorated with red sandstone and inlaid white marble decorations, inscriptions in Naskh script, latticed stone screens and showcases the remarkable craftsmanship of the Turkic artisans who worked on it.
 
                         Sandstone carvings at the base of the Alai Darwaza
                                                                                                                           
    A photo of the entrance to the Alai Darwaza. Observe the pointy arch.

Observe the minarets carved of red sandstone and marble and their flowery base. Also observe the intricate carving on red sandstone which reach till the ceiling.

This is the first building in India to employ Islamic architecture principles in its construction and ornamentation. The Mamluk (Slave) dynasty did not employ true Islamic architecture styles and used false domes and false arches, this makes the Alai Darwaza, the earliest example of first true arches and true domes in India.

Another door of Alai Darwaza facing the Qutb Minar. Observe the unique red sandstone carvings all around the door frame.


It is considered to be one of the most important buildings built in the Delhi sultanate period. With its pointed arches and spearhead of fringes, identified as lotus buds, it adds grace to the Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque to which it served as an entrance.

The tomb of Ala ud din Khalji. The grave and the ceiling of the mausoleum is gone.

The madarsa next to the tomb of Ala ud din Khalji. This was the first example in India of a tomb standing alongside a madarsa.

At the back of the complex, southwest of the mosque, stands an L-shaped construction, consisting of Ala ud din Khalji's Tomb dating 1316 AD, and a madarsa, an Islamic seminary built by him. The central room of the building, which has his tomb, has now lost its dome, though many rooms of the seminary or college are intact, and since been restored.

This is the unfinished base of the mammoth tower Alai Minar, begun by Ala ud din Khalji intended to give competition to Qutb Minar.

Nearby stands the Alai Minar, an ambitious tower of victory. Ala ud din Khalji started constructing this minaret to rival the Qutb Minar, after his armies (led by Malik Kafur) triumphed in the landmark Deccan (Central and South India) campaign (through which he got possession of the world famous Kohinoor Diamond). He died when only its first storey was built and its construction was abandoned thereafter.

Period of Tughluq Sultan Feroze Shah

The minar was first struck by lightning in 1368 AD, which knocked off its top storey. The necessary repairs were done by Sultan Feroze Shah Tughluq (1351-1388). Sultan Feroze Shah Tughluq added the top two floors which were faced with white marble and sandstone enhancing the distinctive variegated look of the minar, as seen in lower three storeys.

The top two floors looks distinctly different in design than the lower floors. The top two floors were built in Tughluq style by the Emperor Feroze Shah Tughluq who also conducted repairs over the monument.

Sultan Feroze Shah also added a cupola (chhatri) at the top of the minar. This cupola (chhatri) fell down in an earthquake in 1802 and was damaged. These architectural additions were done by Sultan Tughluq in his own style which is why the structure displays a marked variation in architectural styles from the Mamluk dynasty to that of the Tughluq dynasty.

Period of Lodi Sultan Sikandar

Inscriptions at the Qutb Minar indicate further repairs by Sultan Sikandar Lodi (of the Lodi Dynasty) in 1503, when it was struck by lightning once again.

Tomb of Imam Zamin

Another monument hailing to the Lodi dynasty's period was the Tomb of Imam Muhammad Ali, or Imam Zamin. It stands on a raised courtyard, next to the Alai Darwaza. As per an inscription of the eastern entrance to the tomb, Imam Zamin was a saint from Central Asia (Turkestan), who settled in India around 1500 A.D. , during the reign of Sikandar Lodi. He built his tomb during his lifetime, and was buried here after his death in 1539 AD. The sandstone structure has a dome on an octagonal base, while its interior is finished in polished white plaster, and contains fine, perforated jaalis, or screens common in Lodi period architecture.

Period of British Colonial Rule

Sanderson's Sundial

Major Smith's Cupola (Smith's Folly)

In the year 1802 the Qutb Minar was damaged by an earthquake and the cupola (chhatri) on the top (erected by Sultan Feroze Shah Tughlaq) was thrown down. It was repaired by Major R. Smith of the Royal Engineers in 1223 and replaced the previous cupola (chhatri) with a Bengali-style chhatri. It was removed by Governor General, Lord Hardinge in 1848, as it looked out of place, and now stands in the outer lawns of the complex, popularly known as Smith's Folly.


The No-Nonsense Travel Advice
Name of the Monument
Qutb Complex
Constructed By
Emperors Qutb ud din Aibak, Iltutmish and Others
Period of Construction
12th, 13th and 16th centuries. Repair work carried out during 14th, 16th and 19th centuries.
Location
Mehrauli, New Delhi
How to Reach
(By Metro) Get down at Qutub Minar Metro Station (on the Yellow Line) and walk the short distance OR take an Auto Rickshaw from your Starting Point OR take a Hop-On-Hop-Off sightseeing bus which is run by Delhi Tourism. Fare is Rs 300 for Adults and Rs 150 for children. Checkout Delhi Tourism website for details.
Entrance Fee
. Citizens of India and visitors from Bangladesh, Nepal, Bhutan, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Maldives, Afghanistan, Thailand and Myanmar - Rs. 10 per head
. Visitors from other countries -
Indian Rs. 250/- per head
. (Free entry to children up to 15 years)
Suggested Reading

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