Begumpuri Masjid, New Delhi (14th Cent CE)

A close up of the facade in front of the main dome

Located off Sri Aurobindo Marg, in Begumpuri Village; this heavily encroached upon Mosque is a class apart, architecture wise. Constructed on the orders of Jauna Khan Telangani (prime minister of Feroz Shah Tughluq and son of Khan i Jahan Maqbul Telangani) , Begumpuri Masjid (Mosque) of Delhi was one in the series of seven mosques constructed by him with the others being - Jama Masjid (Ferozabad), Khirki Masjid (in Khirki Village, opposite Select Citywalk Mall), Kalu Sarai Masjid, Kalan Masjid (Turkman Gate of Old Delhi), Kalan Masjid (Nizamuddin) and Wakya Masjid (Lahori Gate).

View, upon entering the mosque
 

The moment you climb up the moderately steep stairs of this mosque, you would find yourselves in a lofty domed gateway which would lead you to the expansive courtyard (surrounded by a 3 aisled corridor whch is interrupted by gateway entrances and the mihrab) where, during its heydays, this ruinous mosque would be full of life and would have grand carpets spread upon its, now stony, floors and great shamiana's (tents) spread overhead so that the faithful could pray at ease.

.The large courtyard, where at one time large tents and carpets would be present to offer the prayers

 Worn out Mihrab on the Qibla (west facing) Wall

If we look at what remains of this architecturally distinct mosque, it is the manner it has been constructed. Jauna Khan Telangani took personal interest in the designing of the seven mosques he had commissioned and tried to incorporate a unique feature in each of them.

 View of the concealed dome

In this mosque the main dome over the Mihrab is screened by a large wall thus giving an initial impression (from a frontal viewpoint) that the dome does not exist. There are narrow (and dark) stairs which can take you to the top of this wall and the giant dome behind it !! The wall also has a slight slant to it , something reminiscent of the Tughluq style of architecture; and has false minars at both its ends, to beautify as well as to strengthen the structure.

Begumpuri Masjid is a 2 aisled mosque

Shot of an aisle

The roof of the aisles, which surround the courtyard have 2 rows of domes which are running parallel to each other. The walls of the mosque have arched gaps at periodic intervals, thus providing a view of the outside.

 Interior of the Main Dome

The Begumpuri Mosque, now over 600 years old, is also a classic example of how neglect, by the concerned authorities, resulted in the mosque being encroached upon by all sides by residential houses and squatters creating permanent residences 'inside' the mosque. It was only after a prolonged legal battle between ASI and those squatters the courts ordered all the squatters to be shunted out, one by one. But, that said even today the mosque can see the presence of anti social elements by seeing broken bottles and litter.

 Another shot of the courtyard, this time facing the entrance

It is recommended to visit the mosque during day time and preferably with someone. If alone take the help of the guard posted at the gate or 'just keep your eyes open'.

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Qutub Minar, Mehrauli, New Delhi (Const 1206-36 CE)

The Qutub Minar was commissioned by Qutbuddin Aibak in 1206 CE and completed by Sultan Iltutmish in 1236 CE. This minaret is believed to have been named after Hazrat Qutubuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki, a Sufi saint of Chistiya Silsila. He was revered by Sultan Iltutmish and his shrine/dargah is close to the Qutb Complex.

The Qutb Minar is the tallest brick minaret in the world (at 72 metres). As per various historians this UNESCO World Heritage Site is believed to have been inspired by the Minarets of Jam, Ghazni, Bukhara e.t.c. But Historian Ziyauddin Desai believed that the Qutb Minar is inspired by a minar in Khwaja Siyaposh in Sistan (S-W Afghanistan).

Qutub Minar has a total of 5 stories and it was topped by a chattri (installed by Ferozeshah Tughluq). The lowermost, and the tallest floor has 24 flutings. The architecture of the Qutub Minar is such that from a distance it would appear like a bundle of reeds ! Inscriptions on the minar have been found in Perso-Arabic and Nagari Scripts which shed light on its history and the repair works done over it.

Being so tall in height the Qutub Minar has often been prone to lightning strikes across the ages. It has been damaged and subsequently repaired quite a few times across its 816 years old existence by various sultans like Ferozeshah Tughlaq (14th Cent CE), Sultan Sikandar Lodi (1489 - 1517 CE) and the Britishers (in early 1800's CE).

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Sources -

1. Indo-Islamic Architecture by Ziyauddin Desai

2. ASI Sources (Website/Information Board)

2. Wikipedia

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Chittorgarh Junction Railway Station (Est. 1881 C.E.) - Picture of the Week #137

Chittorgarh Junction Railway Station is the main railway station of Chittorgarh City. It connects the town with major cities in North and West India. The trains here run on Broad Gauge tracks.

The Chittorgarh City (which was established next to the Chittorgarh Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site) was linked with railways in the late 19th century as a part of Rajputana - Malwa Railway. This railway station is one of the major transit points for travelers and tourists to visit the legendary fort.

One of the most important links in the railway network of this region was the Chittorgarh - Udaipur Railway Link. It was opened in 1898 C.E. Even today this link is the best and most economical way to reach Udaipur. Udaipur is the 456 year old capital of erstwhile Mewar Princely State in Rajasthan and also a tourist paradise.

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Gaumukh Kund, Chittorgarh - Picture of the Week #136

The Gaumukh Kund of Chittorgarh (Kund means a Reservoir) is a pool of water whose source is a natural spring. This reservoir is revered by Hindus. The Gaumukh Kund had been the source of water for the citizens of Chittorgarh during the numerous seiges it faced. Devotees are permitted to feed the fishes in the water here.

Some of the most famous sieges faced by Chittorgarh included -

1. The Siege of 1303 (where Mewar was pitted against Sultan Alauddin Khalji)
2. The Siege of 1535 (where Mewar was pitted against Sultan Bahadur Shah of Gujarat)

2. The Siege of 1567 (where Mewar was pitted against Mughal Emperor Akbar)

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Chand Baori, Abhaneri (Const 8th-9th Cent CE) - Picture of the Week #135

The Chand Baori is one of the oldest and deepest step wells in Rajasthan and India, in particular. It is also known as 'Abhaneri Chand Bawdi'. This magnificent stepwell was constructed by King Chandra of Nikumbha dynasty around 8th-9th Cent. C.E.

This stepwell is 19.5 mts deep and has around 3500 steps ! This ancient step well was religiously and spiritually related to the nearby Harshat Mata Temple. A devotee visiting Harshat Mata Temple was first supposed to perform ablutions here and then go to the temple.

The sight and pattern of Chand Baori's 1200 years old steps leave a powerful impression on the mind and heart of a visitor !

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Sources -
1. ASI Info Board on site at Chand Baori in Abhaneri
2. Wikipedia

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Harshat Mata Temple Abhaneri (Const 8th-9th Cent CE) - Picture of the Week #134

Harshat Mata Temple Abhaneri was constructed in 8th-9th century C.E. It is dedicated to Harshat Mata (Goddess of Joy and Happiness). It is located in Abhaneri village in Rajasthan.

The Harshat Mata temple was constructed by King Chandra of Nikumbha Dynasty. It was constructed in Mahameru style of architecture. This temple was demolished in the 10th century CE. As per the temple keeper the King of Jaipur got the temple reconstructed in the 18th Cent CE.

The iconic Chand Baori step well is closely related to the temple. A devotee was supposed to perform ablutions at the Chand Baori before going to this temple.

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Information Sources -

1. Information Board on site.

2. Wikipedia

3. The Temple Keeper of Harshat Mata Temple

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Palace Entrance of Bhangarh Fort (Const 1573 CE) - Picture of the Week - #133

Bhangarh Fort was constructed by King Bhagwant Das for his son Madho Singh (younger son of the illustrious Man Singh I). This fort cum township was abandoned in the year 1783 CE. Bhangarh is believed to be one of the most haunted places in India.

On an architectural note this township has been observed, by archaeologists, to be very well planned. There are separate sections in the city for residential areas, markets e.t.c. The streets are well lined as well.

Madho Singh, the individual for whom this town was built, was a royal prince and a soldier. He participated in the Battle of Haldighati (against Maharana Pratap) and led the vanguard of the Mughal forces of Akbar (which were being commandeered by his brother Man Singh).

 

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Gopinath Temple, Bhangarh (Const. 1613 C.E.) - Picture of the Week - #132

In Bhangarh, the Gopinath Temple is one of the many temples located in the fort. Constructed as per the Nagari Architecture (North Indian style) the Gopinath Temple is based on a raised 14 ft Platform (Jagati). It is one of the most well known temples in Bhangarh.  It is not in use, currently.

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Ruins of Southern Gate of Siri Fort, New Delhi (Const 1303 CE) - POTW #131

The ruin of the Southern Gate of Siri Fort are one of the few remaining structures of the 3rd city of Delhi, Dar'ul Khilafat (better known as Siri Fort) with other major ruins being 2 intact sections battlements opposite August Kranti Marg, the Thanewala Masjid behind them and the Hauz e Alai. This city was commissioned by Sultan Alauddin Khalji and built with the help of Seljuq Turks.

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Shrine of Sacred Heart, Idaikattur (Const 1894 CE) - POTW #130

Located in Idaikattur (Tamil Nadu) the Shrine of Sacred Heart, const in 1894 CE by a French missionary, is an imitation of the Rheims Cathedral of France, upon the wishes of the donor. Despite that the church has some unique features which include statues of 153 angels which adorn the exterior of the structure. The reasoning behind placing the angels is because of a dream (seen by a presiding judge who was deciding upon a litigation regarding the church) who saw that the church was being built by angels !

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Panipat Battle Field Memorial, Panipat - Picture of the Week #129

This memorial has been erected at the spot where a tree with black mangoes (Kala Amb) used to stand. The significance of the tree was that it marked of the spot of the battle field where the Third Battle of Panipat (1761 CE) took place between the Maratha and the Durrani armies. The Marathas were led by Sadashiv Rao Bhau while the opposing armies were led by Ahmad Shah Durrani (who was accompanied with local collaborators).

This battle ended in decimation of the Maratha armies post a tense 'stand-off' between the two armies for over 3 months. The Panipat Battle Field Memorial is located on the outskirts of the city.

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Wazu Khana, Jama Masjid (New Delhi) (Const 1656 CE) - Picture of the Week #128

Clicked from the minaret of one of the largest mosques in Asia, the 'Wazu Khana' of Jama Masjid is dotted with people getting ready to say their prayers before they open their roza's (fast)..

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The Original Babri Masjid, Panipat (1529 CE) - POTW #127

Located in Panipat this mosque, also known as Kabuli Bagh Masjid, was built by Babur (the first mosque to be built by him in India), the founder of Mughal Dynasty, as a token of thanksgiving to God post his victory over the armies of Ibrahim Lodi in the First Battle of Panipat (1526 CE). So, by that virtue it becomes the original Babri Masjid. Click here to find out more..

Architecture-wise a two aisle mosque, a part of it has collapse due to aging and lack of maintenance.

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Sweet Shop Banner in Old Delhi - Picture of the Week #126

Picture © Rohan A Singh

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Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu - Picture of the Week #125

Picture © Rohan A Singh

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Khwaja Khizr's Tomb, Sonipat (Const 1524 CE) - POTW #123

Picture © Rohan A Singh

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St James Church (Const. 1836 C.E.) - Picture of the Week #121

Picture © Rohan A Singh

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National Highway 11A, Rajasthan - Picture of the Week #120

Picture © Rohan A Singh

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Swami Vivekananda - The Traveler

Swami Vivekananda (Source - Wikipedia)

Swami Vivekananda was a monk and a philosopher. He was born on 12th January 1863 CE (in Calcutta) and today the world is celebrating his 151st Birth Anniversary. Amongst many of his famous deeds, his introduction of Hinduism at the Parliament of World's Religion in Chicago in the year 1893 CE is remembered across the world by many. It was thanks to the hundreds of conventions and lectures addressed by him, in the west, that the Hindu concepts of Yoga, Transcendental Meditation e.t.c. were embraced warmly by the people of the west. He founded the Ramakrishna Math and the Ramakrishna Mission, both named after his guru.

Vivekananda Rock in Tamil Nadu, located 50 metres off the mainland of India, is the spot where Swami Vivekananda meditated in the winter of 1892 and attained enlightenment. A memorial, seen in the pic, stands to commemorate that incident.

The reason why he features in Path Rarely Taken - The Travel Blog is because he, as a wandering monk traveled across the lengths and breadths of India (from Ayodhya to Ernakulam, from Srinagar to Kanyakumari, from Lahore to Sri Lanka and across America and England) for five years from 1888 CE to 1893 CE to understand the religious and (the prevalent) social norms of those times and to give lectures. He didn't travel because he had some business to do, he traveled because he wanted to 'see' unlike others who travel to see only what they want to see; a salient feature of a true traveler !

An illuminated Vivekananda Memorial, on Vivekananda Rock at nighttime.  

He travelled by foot and by the means of railway (with just a couple of books, a staff and his water pot along with him) and even though the purpose of his travels were religious in nature (just like Hiuen Tsang and Fa Hien) he had an open mind, an open heart, the curiosity to know, the intelligence to understand and the wisdom of not judging anyone. These qualities, I personally believe, are present in only those people who are true travelers by heart !

Path Rarely Taken - The Travel Blog pays respect to his eminence, Swami Vivekananda (a true traveler), on his 151st Birth Anniversary !

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World Heritage Week - Nov 19 to Nov 25, 2014

From the destruction of the Bamiyan Buddhas in Afghanistan to the destruction of the remains of the Mesopotamian civilization by ISIS, from the callous construction of the 1982 Asian Games Village over the ruins of the former city of Siri to the encroachment and vandalism by people of our monuments.. These are the issues and the mindsets which are attempt to be tackled during the World Heritage Week which is being celebrated from November 19 to November 25.

Ruins of the 3rd city of Delhi called Darul Khilafat (popularly known as Siri) (Const 1303 AD)

The chief purpose of celebrating the World Heritage Week is to increase awareness and encourage people about the preservation and safety of the cultural heritage and monuments of our nation and the world. To understand our ancient/medieval/modern cultures, heritage and traditions it is very important that we protect and preserve the priceless historical monuments and preserve the rare cultural and traditional practices which are the treasures of the human civilization.

Graffiti is something people, strangely, love to indulge in, with respect to historical monuments

 (Domes of the Begumpuri Masjid, Const 14th Cent AD)

In the modern times people, in their thirst for modernization and development, conveniently forget how much important it is to preserve our cultural and historical heritage. In the last walk conducted by Roots (Travel Group) we had observed how badly people had encroached upon the remains of the former city of Siri.

Time claws away our monuments, brick by brick. So, if we do not take steps at restoration of our monuments then they might be lost to us forever (A collapsed ceiling of Begumpuri Mosque, 

Const 14th Cent)

Historians, Archaeologists and Heritage Enthusiasts/Lovers are coming forward to raise the banner of conservation of heritage (for our future generations) by conducting special walks, events and exhibitions and through them trying to raise the levels of awareness of Heritage amongst the people. Their efforts, i believe, should be lauded !

The solitude and desolation of our monuments is often exploited by alcoholics and drug addicts who indulge in their addictions inside them, make such places their dens, forbid people from visiting those monuments and spread considerable litter (Western Settlement, Sultan Ghari) (Const 17th-18th Cent)

While Roots is not an out and out heritage group, but we do respect and understand the value of heritage. And keeping in mind our vision of exploring the unexplored we go to those monuments those ruins which people usually skip, the biggest example being the Siri Fort walk we did on November 16.

The canopy above the tomb of Ruknuddin Firoz, near Sultan Ghari would have collapsed due to cracked beams had ASI not built extra pillars to support the cracked beams. (Const around 1240 AD) 

Keeping in mind the reasons for celebrating the World Heritage Week and the fact that we were unable to do any event to support the cause during the week, we would like to dedicate our Panipat-Sonipat Trip (to be held on Dec 13, with an aim to highlight the very ignored heritage and cultural aspects of Haryana) and the Legacy of Delhi walks (whose aim is to make people aware of the unknown yet incredible heritage of Delhi namely the former 8 cities of Delhi) to the main cause of the World Heritage Week, to create Heritage Awareness.

Our monuments are very popular picnic spots but the flip side of it is that people chuck litter all around. It only shows that lack of respect and awareness towards the monuments, a problem which is attempted to be solved by the World Heritage Week

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Note - All pictures are copyrighted in the name of Rohan Anirudh Singh.

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