Swami Vivekananda - The Traveler

Swami Vivekananda (Source - Wikipedia)

Swami Vivekananda was a monk and a philosopher. He was born on 12th January 1863 CE (in Calcutta) and today the world is celebrating his 151st Birth Anniversary. Amongst many of his famous deeds, his introduction of Hinduism at the Parliament of World's Religion in Chicago in the year 1893 CE is remembered across the world by many. It was thanks to the hundreds of conventions and lectures addressed by him, in the west, that the Hindu concepts of Yoga, Transcendental Meditation e.t.c. were embraced warmly by the people of the west. He founded the Ramakrishna Math and the Ramakrishna Mission, both named after his guru.

Vivekananda Rock in Tamil Nadu, located 50 metres off the mainland of India, is the spot where Swami Vivekananda meditated in the winter of 1892 and attained enlightenment. A memorial, seen in the pic, stands to commemorate that incident.

The reason why he features in Path Rarely Taken - The Travel Blog is because he, as a wandering monk traveled across the lengths and breadths of India (from Ayodhya to Ernakulam, from Srinagar to Kanyakumari, from Lahore to Sri Lanka and across America and England) for five years from 1888 CE to 1893 CE to understand the religious and (the prevalent) social norms of those times and to give lectures. He didn't travel because he had some business to do, he traveled because he wanted to 'see' unlike others who travel to see only what they want to see; a salient feature of a true traveler !

An illuminated Vivekananda Memorial, on Vivekananda Rock at nighttime.  

He travelled by foot and by the means of railway (with just a couple of books, a staff and his water pot along with him) and even though the purpose of his travels were religious in nature (just like Hiuen Tsang and Fa Hien) he had an open mind, an open heart, the curiosity to know, the intelligence to understand and the wisdom of not judging anyone. These qualities, I personally believe, are present in only those people who are true travelers by heart !

Path Rarely Taken - The Travel Blog pays respect to his eminence, Swami Vivekananda (a true traveler), on his 151st Birth Anniversary !

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POTW #69 - Kamakshi Amman Temple, Kanchipuram (Const 6th Cent AD)

Picture © Rohan A Singh

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The Immortal Kumbh Mela # 3 - Wading through the Millions

(This is the third part of my travelogue of my series over the Purna Kumbh Mela - 2013, 'The Immortal Kumbh Mela'. This post is in continuation of the second post. The posts in this series will be in a continuous form.) 

An Ascetic taking a break between the long walk from the Sangam to the railway station

I decided to take a detour through a part of the Mela ground which was close to a large sewer looking water body (some distance from the river).. I started walking while avoiding the human faeces and cow dung which was scattered around that place.. I observed people from the villages (visiting the mela) who had set up their tents on that part of the ground and were cooking close to the very area where they were relieving themselves..

Observe the tents in the temporary residential area (for the monks, ascetics and pilgrims) in the Kumbh Mela Grounds

Pilgrims camping in the Kumbh Mela Grounds, many of them without a tent or a sleeping bag

Pilgrims cooking in the mela grounds

A young barber goes about his business, tonsuring the heads of pilgrims.. Their business is brisk during such religious fairs.. Tonsuring heads is a common religious practice amongst Hindus..

Barbers had set up shop there as well for the benefit of those pilgrims who wished to tonsure their heads.. I saw a young boy doubling up as a barber to do the needful..

After walking some distance I tried to make my way back to the road to ensure that I didn't get thrown off track in the vast maze of tents.. For that I ended up crossing the relieving area of another group of sadhus, tip toe over a sewage pipe e.t.c. After so much effort (by that time I had already walked, been pushed, shoved and squashed around for close to four hours) i came across a signboard which said Sangam - 2 kms ahead. Taking a look at the ocean of people ahead and then taking another look at that signboard made me feel dismayed and I half thought of going back.. How much more do I need to walk I asked myself..

A signboard giving directions towards the Sangam

I saw a group of eateries and decided to have a snack and (in a cool shade) regain my composure.. So, while I was munching on Moong Dal ke Pakorey (unfortunately without shredded radish and the chutney) and contemplating what to do next, a gentleman (a photographer who was covering the Mela as well) came and sat on the seat next to me, as it was the only seat available in the entire makeshift eatery..We started talking and after an hour long discussion (nothing refreshes you like a conversation with a like minded person) I found the wind back in my sails to move forward..

A sea of tents in the Kumbh Mela Grounds

As I resumed my long walk towards Sangam I began to realise one thing.. You cannot take the Kumbh Mela for granted.. It is not a large bazaar, not a carnival and the arrangements are not to the extent it should be at all.. One requires either tremendous fortitude or tremendous inspiration to get through it.. I was glad that I was able to muster the courage to travel around the entire fair, wading amongst the oceans of people who had thronged to it..

An ocean of pilgrims extends as far as ones eyes can take them

(Continued in Part 4..)

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The Immortal Kumbh Mela # 2 - On the Road to Sangam

(This is the second part of my travelogue of my series over the Purna Kumbh Mela - 2013, 'The Immortal Kumbh Mela'. This post is in continuation of the first post. The posts in this series will be in a continuous form.)

My first day in Prayag (better known as Allahabad) was not at all what I had expected it to be.. There is nothing much to write about it as well apart from the fact that I lost an entire day to a stomach bug so that left me with Sunday, the day of the Shahi Snan (Royal Bath) on the occasion of Mauni Amavasya.

On Sunday I started early.. As I, did not wish to walk 9 kms to the Sangam (the confluence of the Rivers Ganges, Yamuna and the mythological Saraswati).. I decided to take the train to it. That was quite an effort. I enquired from the porters (or coolie's) at the Allahabad Station whether Shiv Ganga Express (a decent train which had just arrived) would stop at Daraganj (the station closest to the Mela ground).. On getting a positive response I went for the platform only to see a huge swarm of people trying to squeeze into the same train as I was. I made for the coach with the least amount of crowd on its door and pushed myself into it. More people came and pushed me further in. The train started moving but came to a halt at the very next station (Rambagh/Allahabad City) and refused to budge.

As I became impatient I heard (on the Rambagh Station platform speakers) that there was another special train going towards Daraganj and that was going to leave soon.. Getting impatient I ran towards that train and ended up standing for another hour at the gate (getting pushed and pulled by more people)..

Daraganj Railway Station. I got down at the other side as their is only one platform as the station.

Ultimately the train started and reached Daraganj soon.. I got down on the side of the tracks as the platform was on the other side and half slide down the artificial slope (the track was at an elevated height from the ground) along with other pilgrims to get to the mela ground.. While sliding down I had to avoid contact with an old lady in front of me to ensure that she did not take a tumble over the slope because of me..

Pilgrims from Rajasthan (observe their turban) stopping on their way for some refreshments

I reached the road leading to the fair and started the long walk towards it. I observed people who had come from all parts of India including Rajasthan, Bihar e.t.c. It was a colourful crowd. After walking some distance the road towards the fair took a right turn where it became extremely narrow.. The large volume of people in such a narrow road made the possibility of a stampede really possible (the Kumbh Mela's are disreputed for two things - people getting lost and stampedes).

The Panchayati Akhara

Observe how the narrow road is teeming with pilgrims who did not even have space to stand properly.. (The shopkeepers standing on the wall to the left were trying to help sort out the bottleneck)

 Another view of the crowd. Observe how long the bottleneck extends. It happened in a matter of minutes.

Keeping safety in mind I decided to stand at a nook in front of the Panchayati Akhara and began to observe what would happen.. Swarms of people simply kept pushing forward and swarms of people from the opposite side kept doing the same thing.. It was as if a game of tug of war was going on..

There was no police and I saw shopkeepers running out yelling 'Ruk jao warna bhagdarh mach jayega !' (Stop now or else there will be a stampede !) and trying to stop people from moving any further.. Better sense prevailed and people stopped until things got sorted..

Spotted in the crowd - A pilgrim carrying a large Trishul made of Brass..

Spotted in the crowd - A Naga Sadhu (Lower left)

I decided to avoid that road altogether and decided to take a detour..

(Continued in Part 3..)

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Statue of Lord Shiva from Kingdom of Vijaynagar (16th Century)

After a short sabbatical I am returning with my popular series of Black and White Thursdays, thanks to positive reactions from my readers. Black and White Thursdays are a series which is not only meant to highlight the beauty of the human civilization but also to provoke thought amongst readers.. The thought being 'WHY' is this place or monument so magnificent ? How much work might have gone into creating it ? What has that place or monument gone through in all this time ? It is somewhere in questions like these that we find the true reasons which make these destinations wonderful. As I say all the time, 'Every destination, every monument, every artifact, every stone has got a story to tell'. Whether we listen to it or not makes the difference. 

This Black and White Thursday I am presenting a unique and skillful work of craftsmanship from the erstwhile Kingdom of Vijayanagar (1336-1636 AD) which was located in South India. The Kingdom of Vijayanagar was one of the most powerful and wealthy in Indian History. Their rulers were known to promote arts and craftsmanship like no other rulers of their times. I am presenting a statue of Shiva (in his angry avatar) which was sculpted by an unknown sculptor more than 500 years ago in the 16th century.

Lord Shiva in his form of terror (Rudra roop)

Observe the arch over the deity's head, the crown on his head, The sword in his hand and the ornaments which the Lord is wearing. Also do observe the carving of a worshiper with palms joined in fear (the face of whom has been defaced). What is valuable about this statue is not only the expert craftsmanship and vision of the sculptor which went into creating this marvel but also the fact that it survived numerous invasions and attempts to be vandalized. The city of Vijaynagar was razed to the ground by Deccan sultans in 1565 after the battle of Talikota, but this statue stands witness to the grandeur and splendour of those days.

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Indraprastha (1400 B.C.) - The Legacy of Delhi Vol 2

(In this edition of Delhi-iteful Tuesdays I am bringing to you the third part of this historical series The Legacy of Delhi.) 

Around 1400 B.C. there existed besides the banks of the River Yamuna (as per the ancient Indian text or epic 'The Mahabharata') the magnificent city of Indraprastha. It was the capital city of the kingdom of Pandava brothers and ruled by Yudhishthir(the eldest Pandava). It is next to the location of this fabled city that the current city of New Delhi stands.

Legends and Facts -
                                              Although there is not much physical evidence about the city but locals did claim that there existed a huge mound (which could have contained the remains of the city) upon which the Mughals built the Purana Qila or the Old Fort (which was the inner citadel of the city of Dinpanah). Until the year 1913 AD, a village called Indrapat did exist within the fort walls of Purana Qila (Old Fort). Also painted Grey Ware were excavated from this site which dated back to the times of 1500-1000 B.C.

Purana Qila (Old Fort)

Ramparts of Purana Qila (Old Fort ) as seen from its moat.

 Raisina Hill (with the Rashtrapati Bhawan at its backdrop)

There is another theory which suggests that the mound which might have contained the ruins of Indraprastha was not the one upon which the Purana Qila was built but the one upon which the current Rashtrapati Bhawan (Presidential Palace) of India stands. That hill is popularly known as the Raisina Hill. This hill, which could also have been confused with a large mound was visible from the Purana Qila and vice-versa.

Physical Map of Delhi with the location of 'Indraprastha' depicted on it.

History -
                   As per the 'The Mahabharata' the Demon Maya, who was said to be the best architect of his time, built the city and the palace of Indraprastha for the Pandavas after their Uncle King Dhritarashtra partitioned the Kingdom of Hastinapur (which was rightfully Yudhishtir's) into two in order to stem the rivalry between the Pandava brothers (see picture below) and the Kauravas (their cousins). The area for the palace was created by clearing the forests of Khandava by Arjuna and Lord Krishna (his friend and teacher). The palace built by Maya was said to be so magnificent that it invoked the jealousy of Pandavas cousin brother Duryodhana (Kaurava, eldest son of Dhritarashtra).

Here you see the five Pandava princes (heroes of the epic Mahabharata) with their shared wife-in-common Draupadi. The central figure is Yudhishthir. The two to his left are Bhima and Arjuna . Nakula and Sahadeva , the twins, are to his right. Their wife, at far right, is Draupadi .

(Picture by Bob King, sourced from Wikipedia)

 Krishna and Arjuna on the chariot

When Pandavas defeated the Kauravas in the great battle of Kurukshetra, and king Yudhisthir ascended the throne of Hastinapur, his brother Arjuna stayed at Indraprastha, with Lord Krishna, and looked after the borders of the kingdom. Yuyutsu - son of King Dhritarashtra (Kauravas), who switched sides to join the Pandavas right before the battle commenced, was installed as the king of Indraprastha after the battle.

Decline -
                   What happened to the physical remains of the city (if it existed) after the Mahabharata, is not clear as much of the ancient history of India is blurred.

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Glimpses of International Trade Fair 2011

The annual India International Trade Fair 2011 held in New Delhi was a great event to visit in the month of November. Many countries, all of the 28 Indian states (provinces) and hundreds of government and private organisations participated in it, making it a gala event. Millions of people thronged to it and the fair was so large that given the large crowds it would have taken atleast 2-3 days to cover it entirely.

Amongst the many pavilions depicted the life and culture of the various states of India it was the pavilions of Kerala State and Odisha State which were one of the best. Amongst the international participants it was the pavilion of Thailand which was offering the best deals and it was the pavilion of Pakistan which won most of the hearts. Here are the glimpses of the fair -

Terracotta figurine of Goddess Saraswati (Goddess of Wisdom) displayed at the pavilion of India's Bihar Province

A giant painting depicting tribal art adorned the hall hosting international pavilions

Afghanistan Pavilion. Trade fair attracts participation from various countries. Trade Fair 2011 saw participation of countries like Canada, China, Pakistan e.t.c.

Pavilions of Turkey, China and Hong Kong

At the far end of the hall is the Thai pavilion. Visitors thronged to the Thai pavilion as they had some great stuff to sell at competitive prices.

Wooden figure of Lord Krishna drawing Arjuna's chariot in the epic battle of Mahabharata

Figure of Gautama Buddha in front of Bihar Province's(State) pavilion. The Mahabodhi Tree under which Buddha attained enlightenment is located in Bihar Province(State)

Pavilion of Bihar Province(State)

Traditional musicians playing enchanting music through their Bamboo made musical instruments

Observe the crown of the instrument which has a plume of peacock feathers

Wooden figurines displaying various dance forms

Wooden statue of a mother stork over it's nest

Wooden Handicraft with the head of a female

Ceramic Potteries - Urns and a Vase

Lord Balaji of Tirupati in Andhra Province(State) (Andhra Pradesh Pavilion)

A craftsman giving finishing touches to the statue of Lord Ganesha

A tribal figurehead made completely with bamboo adorned the entrance of Assam Province pavilion

A statue of a tribal musician made with bamboo sticks

The next three pictures below are of the statues of religious deities whose temples are found in Odisha Province. These deities were depicted in the Odisha Pavilion -

Lord Jagannath. The annual Ratha (Chariot) Yatra in honor of Lord Jagannath at his temple in Puri attracts millions of pilgrims every year 

Goddess Subhadra (Sister of Lord Jagannath)

Lord Balabhadra (Brother of Lord Jagannath)

View of the Pakistan pavilion

Despite the projected bitterness between the political and army class of both countries, the people of both nations are keen for peace to prevail. The willingness for friendship was indicated by people thronging in great numbers to the Pakistani pavilion giving the traders good business.

The following pictures are of the Pavilion of Kerala Province which consistently wins the award of best decorated pavilion in the Trade Fair-

Pavilion of Kerala Province

The statue depicts a Kathakali dancer. Kathakali is the traditional dance style originating in Kerala.

The idol of Lord Ayyappa atop an elephant

Elephants are an integral part of life in Kerala and so is sculpting

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