Remembering Professor Sunil Kumar

 

Professor Sunil Kumar 

Professor Sunil Kumar passed away recently. He was 64. He was a specialist in the History of the Delhi Sultanate (Medieval Delhi). He had developed health complications. He is survived by his family. The blog and its author extend their heartfelt condolences to the bereaved family.

……..

So, why is a heritage and off-beat travel blogger writing this piece? It is because along with this blog, which is 11 years old now, even its author has grown. From being a blogger about history I attempted to take my passion to the next level, the academic level. And today, I am a historian who is a blogger. 

During my full-time blogging days, I would be in awe of the research work Professor Sunil Kumar did over Medieval Delhi. He was one of the rare historians of the Delhi Region, 'My Home'. 

Professor Sunil Kumar's landmark book about the Delhi Sultanate.

(The author does not own the copyright to this picture)

In this journey, I have had the privilege of learning from some big professors. He is one of them. So, once I completed my Master's in History, I attempted to do research and for that, I gave interviews at Delhi University twice. 

Being the Head of the Department of History, he led the interview panels and sat right next to me. Also, apart from these two interactions, we briefly exchanged emails because I requested some help from him regarding my research proposal and he was kind enough to respond. It left me touched. My communications with him were formal and brief. 

The tyranny of the academic system in India is that, a prospective researcher has got 10 minutes to prove to the panel that he or she has the historical aptitude, confidence in the topic he/she is proposing, they have read books and research papers related to that proposal and defend that proposal in front of the panel. After the 10 minutes are over it’s the time for the next candidate to come in. 

In my opinion, these three things cannot be displayed by a candidate, to an interview panel, in less than 35-40 minutes unless they are highly intelligent and bordering on genius. In my opinion applications along with research proposals (and academic resumes) should be invited by Universities well in advance, and then interviews should be slated. Anyways, we live in India. The priority of the education system here is to churn out doctors, engineers, and MBAs. So we need to take that into our stride.

The academics who are sitting in the interview panel also have the harrowing task of judging a candidate's abilities in 10 minutes. I am sure they do so with the regret that they would be missing out on students who require time to express themselves and their ideas comfortably. I do not envy their job.

My two interactions with him (concerning the interviews, especially the second one) were 'intense' experiences, and my failure to clear those interviews left me with an aching heart and dealing with severe bouts of depression and self-doubt. Yet, once I overcame those debilitating emotions, through my reflections of those interactions, I 'scrutinized' every word exchanged between him and me so that I could identify and correct my flaws and also my approach to such interviews.

So, while being heartbroken because of my lack of success, I always felt that even in those moments of failure I was taught something. How can I say that? Because I failed in front of Professor Sunil Kumar! 

As I mentioned earlier, he was a historian par excellence of medieval Delhi. His research work has helped people gain a better perspective about those who constructed such beautiful monuments (of the sultanate period) all around Delhi like the Qutub Minar, Alai Darwaza, Begumpuri Masjid, etc. He 'always' had my unconditional respect.

Clockwise from above right - Begumpuri Masjid, Qutub Minar, Alai Darwaza

This blog 'is' run by someone who has passionately covered the monuments of the same period of history which Professor Sunil Kumar was a master of. He was my teacher by proxy. The lessons he taught me through his emails, rejections, etc, and the lessons he continues to teach me via his research papers on Sufism are invaluable.

There was a great chasm between his abilities and mine but, there were a few similarities that united us in our outlook also. We were both liberal, we both have studied at St Stephen's and, most importantly, we both 'loved' the Delhi Sultanate period.

Even in my days as a full-time blogger, while I read more of Professor Satish Chandra and Professor Irfan Habib still, I knew how significant Professor Sunil Kumar's book 'The Emergence of the Delhi Sultanate' was. The book helped me understand the Mamluk Dynasty (the constructors of the monuments in the Qutub Complex) so well. 

He even wrote a research paper on the Qutub Minar namely 'Qutb and Modern Memory'. In his research paper, 'The Tyranny of Metanarratives' he talked about the areas of Delhi and the local non-Persian speaking population of Delhi which thrived in their own right and yet, were not covered much by Persian historians of that period. He also explained how medieval Delhi appeared geographically (with mountains, ravines, forests, and riverine plains), in the paper. In his research paper The Pirs Barakat and Servitors Ardour he talked about the mosque behind DLF Saket which has been built over a dargah and a 700 years old baoli (step-well). He also talked about the Dargah of Hazrat Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki in Mehrauli and the Dargah of Jalal ud din Chishti Aulia in Jahanpanah City Forest.

I will regret forever that I was never able to sit down with him, in a relaxed atmosphere and discuss Delhi's monuments (especially those in the Qutub Complex like Quwwat ul Islam Masjid, Alai Minar, etc.) with him. That would have been a conversation which would have delighted me.

It is my opinion that a historian's life begins after he retires as that is the time he is free to do his research work. It is a tragedy for Delhi that Professor Sunil Kumar left before giving such works to shape.

Appearance-wise, I observed that he was stylish, with his mobile case by his side. He was tall and had a deep voice.

Professor Sunil Kumar, please accept this traveler's humble and respectful bow. You are in my prayers, Sir. 

May your Soul, Rest in Peace.

……..

Read More

The Qutub Minar - An Emotional Perspective!

Some unemotional facts first. Qutub Minar is the tallest brick minaret in the world. It is more than 800 years old. It is located in Delhi, the capital of India. It's architectural concept is Central Asian in origin, something unique to India. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the second most visited monument in India, next only to the Taj Mahal.

....

So, what makes the Qutub Minar so special? Because it is 800 years old? Because of it's unique architecture? Because it is the highest brick minaret in the world? Because it is a UNESCO World Heritage site? Or, because the minaret has become a symbol of sorts for contemporary New Delhi. It could be one of the above reasons or it could be all of them. 

Qutub Minar, under the deep blue sky!

Numerous personalities across ages have been left spellbound by this monument. There is something about the monument that enchants the viewer. The dynasty which built this monument lost power in 1290 C.E. (Qutub Minar was built by the Mamluks). Yet, in the medieval era, rulers of other dynasties took a special interest in conserving the monument, especially Ferozeshah Tughlaq (r. 1351-1388 C.E.) and Sikandar Lodi (r. 1489-1519 C.E.). In the modern era, even the British Imperialists (under no obligation to maintain the monuments of India at that time) deployed engineers to repair the monument (it was struck by lightning in the early 1800's C.E.). 

Sir Syed Ahmed Khan (while researching for Asar us Sanadid, a famous book on monuments), without paying attention to his safety, made his manservants suspend him from a basket, while he sat in it, and swung him around from the great heights of the monument, so that he could make notes of the Quranic inscriptions engraved on it. So, when such towering and astute personalities have been left enchanted by this monument then perhaps the reader would excuse this humble writer for being ‘deeply’ enamored by this monument too. 

Qutub Minar is a monument which because of its height (Qutub Minar height - 72 meters), and the fact that it is surrounded by a protected forest from 3 sides, is one of the most visible monuments of South Delhi. It is easily visible from all the high rises in the neighboring colonies (Katwaria Sarai, Munirka, Mehrauli, etc)  provided they have a clear line of sight. Qutb View Apartments, the Govt Quarters of Katwaria Sarai and high rises of Munirka provide good views of this monument in my opinion. Some of the best views of this monument can also be seen from Mehrauli Archaeological Park and the Centre for History of JNU. These are places I have seen the minar from. In geographical terms, the monument is easily visible across a radius of 6-7 kilometers, provided there is a clear line of sight!

Qutub Minar, as seen from Mehrauli Archaeological Park

Qutub Minar, as seen from Metcalfe's Folly (opposite Jamali Kamali Mosque and Tomb, Mehrauli Archaeological Park)

Until my teenage days, I lived in South Delhi, in one of such colonies where, from the terrace, one could see the Qutub Minar anytime they wanted. I remember that my father was the one who showed me the monument and told me about it, from the roof of our apartment. Even at that time, I could not help but notice how the monument looked so intriguing. It looked like a bundle of reeds.

So, my point being that when you see a monument from your house and you grow up along with it, it is bound to have a profound impression on you. Moreover, the Qutub Minar does have the power to gravitate people to itself even if they are seeing it for the first time. I have been witness to this phenomenon. It's architecture, part Mamluk part Tughluq, the honey comb like designs under the balcony of the first floor of the minar, the calligraphic style of its inscriptions etc. all play a role in attracting a person to itself. The monument leaves the onlooker awestruck.

The Minar, as seen from the main road (outside the boundary wall of the Qutub Complex)

During the lockdown when I was stuck in my home, and could not visit any monument, I thought that all the residential colonies (with a line of view to the Qutub) are special. Reason being that these places offer a view of this marvelous monument 365 days a week. So, even if the residents of these places (especially those who love history), felt lockdown fatigue and missed visiting monuments as I did,  they could simply sit by their window, a glass of juice (or whatever drink they might want to have) in hand and enjoy the view of the Qutub. 

The benefit of being able to see Qutub Minar out of your window is that (apart from the daylight viewing) in the evening, the ASI lights up the monument beautifully. It is a delight to see the monument under lights. Depending on the occasion, the monument is lighted under different hues and colors. 

Seeing such a splendid light show, from across the forests of Sanjay Van (Qutub Minar is surrounded by forests from 3 sides, remember!) is a sight for sore eyes and would certainly wipe away lockdown blues of all kinds. 

Qutub Minar (the bright spot) as seen across the Neela Hauz (Lake), a part of Sanjay Van (forests). Off camera, it looks much larger of course!

When the lockdown ended, I would often take my bike out for evening drives to beat the lockdown blues. I would often ride to Qutub Minar to not only click pictures from outside but also to gaze at it and its distinctive architectural features. I would observe the additions made by Firoz Shah Tughluq (floors 4 and 5 of Qutub Minar was built by him) which are so different from the original architecture of the monument which was finalized by Mohammad Ghori and Mamluk rulers Qutb ud din Aibak and Iltutmish (floors 1 to 3). I would also observe the special lighting in the evening if any. The Qutub Minar height ensures that it is viewed even from Aruna Asaf Ali Road, across the Sanjay Van Forests. So, while riding my bike, I would often spot it from there too!. All this served as a catalyst to renew my inspiration to keep working towards my goal, to carve out a career in the world of history. An inspiration that has taken a lot of beating in the past four years due to my lack of success in cracking Ph.D. interviews. 

The Minar, at night.

Anyways, gazing at the Qutub Minar always cheers me up and serves to remind me of my love of history (medieval Indian history, to be precise). I just hope that I can stay in the world of history and don't have to leave it. The Qutub Minar stands for me to remind me as to why I am making the sacrifices I am making. The reason being that being a Delhiite,  I am enamored by the Medieval Indian era,  an era when the entire country was ruled from Delhi.

........

Read More

Protecting Workers of Travel and Tourism Industry - A Commentary

The Lockdown has been re-imposed across various parts of India yet again due to an increase in Coronavirus cases. One of the industries which has been severely affected by this is the travel and tourism industry. Travel agencies are laying off employees and the hotels and airlines are considering doing so if they have not done so already. One does not even want to think of the owners who can no longer find running a hotel or a restaurant economically sustainable. The pandemic, unequaled in the shock it has given to economies, has arrived as a bane for the industry.

Structure of Coronavirus. A virus which has wrecked the peace of mankind!

Pic Courtesy - WikiImages

Being a trained Hotel Management professional and having been a part of the Hotel Industry at a point in time, I am aware of how important footfall is, of how important free movement of people is, for the health of the industry. Yet, when a virus makes the free movement of people impossible, the people who earn a living from this industry are left with no option but to look on, helplessly. They have to wait until the majority of the world's population is inoculated with a vaccine.

When I travel, I usually visit hotels that are budget properties. I usually go to economical restaurants. But it is these properties that are the worst affected due to the Coronavirus-induced pandemic. Oyo, one of the biggest names in budget properties, has suffered economically due to the Coronavirus-induced pandemic.

Whatever be the situation, the governments (state and central) need to ensure that the owners of businesses in the travel and tourism industry are insulated to a certain degree by the Covid 19 induced pandemic. 

Equally important, the governments need to make sure that the people working in the travel and tourism industry are protected financially. They need to do so because the travel and tourism industry is a great earner of foreign exchange (and also boosts local economies) and so the people who make all this happen need to be protected, keeping the future in mind when we would be needing them.

No tourist would want to check-in and find an inexperienced staff taking care of a hotel because the 'experienced' staff had to leave for greener pastures during the Covid 19 induced pandemic! After all, even they have families to take care of!

The Indian Government has announced that they have plans to help the tourism industry, plans which they will unveil once the unlocking process starts. That is a welcome start. Yet, my point is that my travel experiences were made awesome not just by owners of hotels but also by the drivers of canters (safari vehicles), forest guides, monument guides, the cooks, the cleaning staff, the servers, the cab drivers and the auto drivers. So, the governments (both state and center) should consider giving these people some form of stipend, for their sustenance, until a semblance of normalcy returns. 

All this should be done to ensure that when we go back to our favorite destinations or explore new ones, our travel experiences are just as enjoyable as it was earlier, if not much better.

....

Read More

Qutub Minar Complex, under lights! - A Photo Essay

 

The Qutub Minar, under lights!

Qutub Minar, an icon of contemporary New Delhi is at least 800 years old. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In India, after the Taj Mahal, it is this monument that attracts the highest number of visitors from across the world. Recently, it even surpassed the Taj Mahal in the number of Ticket Sales.

The allure of this monument is its height and its unique architecture. It stands tilted due to the wear and tear time has imposed on it. No words though, can define the rustic beauty of this monument which no one exactly knows why it was built and how it came to be named Qutub Minar.

So, call it ignorance on my part or lack of regular promotion on part of the Archaeological Survey of India, I never had an opportunity to visit the Qutub Minar late in the evening when the lights were on because somehow, I was not aware that I could do that (can you believe it?). 

So when the 1st nationwide lockdown was lifted from India in 2020, I made it a point to visit this place late in the evening and see the Qutub Minar and all the nearby monuments like alai darwaza, etc., collectively called the Qutub Minar Complex, under lights. 

I think that visiting this place after sunset is one of the best ways to explore this monument. There are no crowds. So you can spend more time observing the intricacies of the Qutub Minar and the other monuments in the complex like quwwat ul islam mosque, alai darwaza etc. Security guards are everywhere so you are safe. Most importantly, the illuminated monuments cast a completely different impression on you in comparison to daytime.

This article had to be done in a Photo Essay form so that you would have understood, via pictures, a fraction of what I felt when I visited the Qutub Minar Complex (and the Qutub Minar) when it was dark.

The Inscriptions on the Minar, under lights!

The Minar, from a different angle, under lights!

The Quwwat ul Islam mosque is one of the oldest mosques in India. A walk through the mosque premises in the evening, while secure security-wise, felt quite eerie nonetheless. That reflected in the quality of my photographs as I found myself short of patience when I tried to click pictures, while standing in the courtyard area of the mosque. 

Pictures of the Quwwat ul Islam Mosque, under lights - 

The front façade of the mosque under a dark blue sky and a crescent moon, under lights!

The entrance to the mosque, under lights!

The aisles of the mosque and the engravings on the pillars, highlighted under lights!

The Mihrab of the mosque, under lights!

The mosque, from another angle, under lights!

........

Read More

A Trip to Ranthambhore National Park, Rajasthan, India - A Photo Essay #3

While travelling, one observes things of myriad hues. One sees people, culture, sights, environs and one also feels the aura of a place. Everything cannot be presented to a reader through words without losing the advantage of brevity. So, this is why I am preparing this Photo Essay so that you can have a deeper insight to all that I saw when I was in the Ranthambhore National Park. 

The first set of pictures includes images of the deer population of Ranthambhore. Ranthambhore National Park is blessed with numerous variety of deer namely Spotted Deer, Sambhar Deer, Barking Deer, Nilgai etc.

Ranthambhore National Park possesses a rich variety of birds. I was able to capture only two though. The Peacock and the Magpie!

I was lucky enough to capture a reptile on camera. It was basking in the sun near the Kacheda Reservoir, Zone 5.

I love the hilly landscape of Ranthambhore National Park. Combined with it's flora, it makes for great viewing. This is a sideshow people often forget to enjoy, in their quest to see the elusive Tiger!

Often, man made interventions have had to be done in order to sustain the fauna population in Ranthambhore. This water tank in Zone 6 is one such intervention.

Jungle paths have to be carved for safaris but also have to be blocked if mothers give birth to animals very close to the paths!

( This is the third in the series of articles I am writing about my visit to Ranthambhore National Park in Feb - Mar 2018. Due to a hectic schedule I was unable to complete it. Now due to the pandemic, with zero travel opportunities, I am revisiting my former trips which I had documented and photographed with the intention of blogging but never did. So, I will be naming this series of retrospective posts as 'From the Vault' posts. I hope you like them :-) )

Read More

A Trip to Ranthambhore National Park, Rajasthan, India #2

A Herd of Deer in Zone 5

My two safaris were incredible experiences. That said, in a jungle, only two factors can spoil your fun. One, if a predator confronts your car or two, if the people you are traveling with, misbehave by not following the etiquette of traveling in a safari. 

Vast Landscapes of Zone 6. It provides good photographic opportunities to click wildlife from a distance.

In Zone 6, the biggest charm was the flatlands which we saw. It made me feel as if I was having a safari in Africa or something. The biggest highlight of the day though was a series of tiger pugmarks we saw on the trail. A tiger had crossed that trail to head somewhere. I was able to see a Sloth Bear in this safari and some deers.

Pugmark of a Tiger, Ranthambhore National Park

The Kacheda Reservoir. We visited in late Feb.

In Zone 5, which we visited the next day, I got to visit the Kacheda Reservoir. I was disappointed to see that it was almost dry. Yet, I was able to spot a crocodile, which was basking in the sun at some distance. 

A crocodile, on the other side of the bund at Kacheda Reservoir

It was in this safari that I heard the barking of a deer (a warning signal that a predator was nearby) which was then followed by a bellow which was let out by a tiger. We were quite some distance away when we heard the roar of the tiger, but it shook everyone in the canter. But, as we were 'in' the canter we knew we were safe. Trust me, we would not have been as confident of our chances had we been on our own in the jungle!

Jungle Safari Trails taken by Canters and Gypsies

Our canter raced to look for the spot from where the roar came and very soon we reached there only to find a gypsy quietly waiting for the tiger to show itself. But, the predator had decided to sit amongst the foliage and so we could not see anything. 

Whenever wildlife is spotted is expected to be spotted, canters and gypsies accumulate at the spot.

Within 5 minutes of us reaching the spot from where the tiger had roared, all the gypsies and canters stormed in, to get a look at the tiger. Within a few minutes, the powerful roar of a tiger had turned a secluded part of the forest to resemble the parking lot of a popular mall in New Delhi. I realized that now, the tiger would not come out even if it wanted to. Tigers are shy animals.

I was, though, very satisfied with my experiences in both the safaris and will be planning to visit Ranthambore once again, the moment it is possible.

Overall, my experience of visiting Ranthambore was very good. The hills, forests, wildlife, and the natural beauty of the place make this destination a must-visit. My resort was small in scale but I was happy with the cleanliness of the room, the meals which had a homemade gue to them (something I greatly appreciated), and the evening campfires. I am more than willing to go there again!

Beautiful and Serene. A View of the Resort from the Entrance of my Cottage.

****

( This is the second in the series of articles I am writing about my visit to Ranthambhore National Park in Feb - Mar 2018. Due to a hectic schedule I was unable to complete it. Now due to the pandemic, with zero travel opportunities, I am revisiting my former trips which I had documented and photographed with the intention of blogging but never did. So, I will be naming this series of retrospective posts as 'From the Vault' posts. I hope you like them :-) )

Read More

A Trip to Ranthambhore National Park, Rajasthan, India #1

 Ranthambhore National Park (near Sawai Madhopur, Rajasthan, Western India) is one of those rare wildlife sanctuaries where the odds of you spotting a tiger is more as compared to other parks like Corbett and Kaziranga (despite them having a far greater tiger population). Moreover, the park gets its name from the 1000+ years old Hill Fortress of Ranthambhore (which is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site) which was brutally sacked by Ala ud Din Khalji (in the late 13th Century) and Akbar's (16th Century) forces. 

A Ranthambhore Fort Gate in Zone 6 of Ranthambhore National Park

This park, which was formerly the hunting grounds of the Rajas of Jaipur was nurtured by the conservator, the late Mr. Fateh Singh Rathore. It is chiefly due to his (and the forest department's) efforts that the tiger population of the park has risen to 65-70 as of February 2018.

Rugged Landscape of Ranthambhore

The dry deciduous vegetation of this sanctuary ensures visibility in the range of 50 to 200 meters from zone to zone. It is due to this factor that tiger sightings are more common here.

My visit to Ranthambhore, the second one in total, was chiefly due to fond memories from my first visit and also so that I could visit the fort this time (although it's another matter altogether that I canceled out the fort at the last moment to book another safari). 

My trip was a lovely one, my hotel (a small resort) was nice and offered a view of the Sanctuary from the porch while the safaris were lovely!

Unlike the majority of people who visit sanctuaries only to ‘see the tiger’ I, having made multiple visits to the Delhi Zoo (while bunking college) and having come across the tiger multiple times (so much so that I started avoiding the enclosure due to visual fatigue) was more keen on checking out the vegetation, the wildlife and the forest in general and try to grasp the aura of the place.

A deer amongst the foliage

Magpies, basking in the Sun

I went to Zones 5 and 6 for my two safaris. I insisted on booking the safaris online and also insisted on going to the sanctuary office to collect my Canter Boarding Passes myself. Both the activities were quite an adventure by themselves as while the online booking portal offers limited options to pay online, the drivers of canters and gypsies were at their rowdy best (in the Sanctuary office), yelling, breaking the queue… Nonetheless, I got the boarding passes without any issues and as I mentioned earlier, had memorable safaris!

A Post of the Forest Rangers in Zone 6, Ranthambhore National Park

The trip all in all was a wonderful one and it left me fighting a bout of post-travel depression yet again!

To know what were my experiences at the safaris and to know whether I came across any presence of the elusive tiger do read my next post!

(to be continued....)

( This is the first in the series of articles I am writing about my visit to Ranthambhore National Park in Feb - Mar 2018. Due to a hectic schedule I was unable to complete it. Now due to the pandemic, with zero travel opportunities, I am revisiting my former trips which I had documented and photographed with the intention of blogging but never did. So, I will be naming this series of retrospective posts as 'From the Vault' posts. I hope you like them :-) )

Read More